Perfect First Layer

This Episodes Listener Questions:

From Hurz:
How does Guy feel about wood filled filament?

From Derek:
Hello from Tasmania! Really enjoying the 3D printing podcast after consuming most of the woodshop life podcasts. I also started in woodworking and have branched out to 3D printing after getting a second hand Creality CR6-SE about a year ago.
My question: can you talk about your preferred method for storing filament and keeping it dry. Also is there a shelf life for filaments or if stored properly could they be used indefinitely?
Second question: pros and cons of having an enclosure. I print with PETG or PLA+. I mainly make jigs and accessories for the workshop (eg TIG tungsten grinder, right angle sanding jig for festool sander, drill bit holders etc). Is there any advantage for me to make an acrylic enclosure for my printer? Would i get any improvements in terms of print quality? My house is climate controlled and has very stable temp and humidity levels.

Possible question 3:
Have you ever had a 3D printer malfunction or catch fire (worst case scenario) with extended or overnight use. Just wondering how well these machines might stand up to a longer period of use. I sometimes might have to leave the house when there’s a lengthy print happening but sometimes worry about what could happen when left unattended. Given there are electrics plus heat in combination, any tips on safety and fire risk?
Thanks!

From Brent:
Hello love the show I’m currently at a loss I have been 3d printing for a year now and have had several solid prints on ender 5 pro. We ended up having a large storm and it still worked after words but with issues I’ve fixed almost all of them by upgrading and replacing certain parts but my current issue is that the walls of my prints are separated not layer lines but looking down at the walls they are separated when they where one before and I have asked many 3d printing groups and they only send me to same websites that haven’t been able to help any ideas I’m ready to burn this printer to the ground thank you sorry for the length of this message

Here are this weeks listener questions:

Hurz

Hello Guy(s),

how is it that Prusaslicer is so awesome in regard to multimaterial painting and so bad at handling IDEX in general? When using an oozeshield the temperature management is poor i.e. the next extruder reheat is not predicted so it takes a lot of time because isn’t done while the other head is still printing. Also the retraction settings for a tool change are broken for 2 years now, hell back then I didn’t even have a printer. Cura on the other hand handles the machine very nice but has no painting option.

What Slicer does JJ prefer for IDEX?

Jon

Hey Guy, JJ, and Nathan,

I read the other day, “He who has 2 3D printers, has 1 operational 3D printer”. I am looking at getting a second printer, I was impressed with y’all’s (sorry for “y’all’s”  I am from Missouri) videos on the Ender 3 S1/S1 Pro, Ender 5 S1, and Artillery Sidewinder X2. I will be using it to print replacement parts for an Ender 3 Pro I intend to mod. Any opinions on what to buy? I want the ability to print fast as well as print with high quality via slow speeds. I am gravitating towards the Ender 5 S1. Though Artillery is coming out with a CoreXY in the near future that could be cool too.

Sorry if this sort of question are out of bounds. Loving the Podcast.

Here are the Questions for this weeks podcast:

Lawrence from Toronto

   I have an ender 5 with the extruder set up with a bowden tube. If I change over to direct drive, what are the immediate benefits to me? Can I go faster? Does it print better? And if i do upgrade, can you recommend an all in one unit? Or should I go the DIY route and use the parts that I have and print out a new tool head? I know, too many questions. Thanks for the great podcast!

Justin

I want to add automatic bed leveling to my printer which is an Ender 3. There are so many options! Can you guys discuss the different types of bed level sensors and which is the most accurate and the best value?

Jim From Nashville

Hey guys! I am wanting to build a voron 2.4 from a Fysetc kit, and I have always questioned that the printed parts need to be ABS. If I am not going to use an enclosure or print ABS, do I need to print the parts in ABS? How about a general discussion of the 3 main types of filament (PLA, PETG and ABS)? I have an Ender 3 that is pretty modified, but I have never been able to print ABS successfully.

Aaron from Boston

I really want to print fast like Nathan! I have an Ender 3 S1 pro and I think one of the things that I am having trouble with is the parts cooling fan. It’s pretty small and seems to have trouble whenever I kick up the speed a notch in Marlin. How important is having powerful parts cooling fans? How about the different types of filament?

This episode was kind of a free for all conversation. It takes some great twists and turns and a lot of different subject are covered.

Remember we need your questions! Make sure to go to perfectfirstlayer.com and go to the submit page.  

Questions:

Hello! I have an Artillery Sidewinder X2 and would like to install Klipper on it to see if I can print faster. Since Klipper requires a Raspberry Pi, and it seems that they are too expensive, what are my options? There are so many different things to choose from and not sure which offers the best bang for the buck. 

Steven 

Hi Fellas, I am having a real problem with stringing. Whenever I print, I get these fine hairs all over the place. I did try changing the retraction settings in Cura, but it doesn’t matter if I set it as high as 6 or as low as 1. I am printing mostly PLA on an Ender 5 Pro. Thanks for the great podcast!

Justin

We are here to answer and discuss your questions! Please go to our submit page at perfectfirstlayer.com and ask us anything 3D Printer related!

Here are the questions from our listeners this episode:

Hey guys. Just found your podcast and binged the first episodes and really enjoyed them! I do have a question for you. I am having an awful time with supports. I cringe every time I need to use them. I have a Biqu B1 printer and use Cura to slice with. No matter what I do, in the settings, they are hard to remove and end up leaving a lot of marks behind. Any tips you can give me? Thanks again for the great podcast, Jeremy from Oklahoma.

I have a question for you. I recently purchased an Elegoo Neptune 3 PLus and am really loving using it and 3d printing! I have tried  a couple large prints on it and am having issues with the models sticking to the bed while printing. It always seems to happen when the print is almost through a 20 hour + print and it gets ruined. I am using Matterhackers PLA and using the recommended settings for both the hot end and the heated bed. What am I missing? Steven.

First we tackle a question from Xavier in LA:

I really want to speed up my printing. I have an ender 3 v2 and it’s still a stock printer. What are some good upgrades for me? What are the problems that can arise with the equipment as I speed things up? Do I need to replace the stock hot end and control board? I know, a lot of questions. I think that it would be cool if you guys could discuss this and help a newbie out.

This leads to a really good discussion of all the things to help increase your print speed. And JJ is getting a Bambu P1P! Nathan also recieved his, so he gives us some insight on the P1P.

Nathan, JJ and Guy discuss a question from Jim in St. Loius:

“I keep hearing about how great Klipper is. Unfortunately it seems when I try to learn about it, I am met with a long and complicated installation. And the Klipper website is even worse. Can you recommend a site or actually explain the process of installation? And do I really need it? I have an Ender 3 V2 and would like to delve more into the hobby, but it just seems like everyone over complicates the process.”

Which of course leads to a side discussion of Bambu Lab printer, Marlin and Prusa