Category: Uncategorized

This episodes questions:

Based on a previous question you guys helped with, company I am consulting with purchased a Bambu X1 Carbon. We are successfully producing salable nylon/carbon fiber parts for ultra light canoes. Very happy with our purchase.
So – next question. Thinking of second printer. What are the gains you would get in the $1500 to $2500 range. Is it speed, robustness or reliability? The X1 checked all the boxes with good build, easy to learn slicer and reliable prints so far. Just trying to understand why we would make the next jump up, and if it is really necessary.
Thanks for all the info – it has been invaluable so far!
Gary Ratajczak

Hi guys,
Hope you are all well.
My question would be: do you guys have any tips for printing larger prints for a bed slinger dimensions 220x220x250? I have an Anycubic Kobra 2. I intend to print helmets which are generally a lot larger than my print bed dimensions. And What are your thoughts on SLA printing?
Thank you all for this great podcast!
Kind Regards,
Carson, Southampton, UK (place where Titanic set sail if it helps haha)

Hello all! Since you all have one of those fancy new Enders, is that the X-Motor on the back of the gantry? I keep wondering in all the reviews I see. Any thoughts on why they moved it to the back? What’s the belt path look like?
Thanks Guy(s)! ha ha! Love the podcast!
JohnDStrand

This Episodes Questions and Comment:

From: Michael Banicki
Listening to your last episode I heard you talking about the labor intensive art of creating profiles for different slicers for different printers and materials. One thing I have found is that many of your 3D model websites like printables will also have downloads for different slicers and materials and printers on them as well. Such as you can search for k1 Max profile on printables and many different things come up. Thought this may be a helpful suggestion for yourselves, or other listeners that may be new to setting up custom profiles and slicers and needed a little bit of help.

Hey Guy, JJ, and Nathan.

I am at that stage in my life that I have a printer I no longer need/want. It’s an Ender 3 Pro, with some mods and upgrades. There’s an organization, locally, that I can donate it to so that it will hopefully help someone else get hooked on the hobby.
My only reservation is that it was my FIRST PRINTER, I don’t have any sentimental attachment to it now… I think… but wanted see if you’ve ever had any regrets about gifting, selling, getting rid of a printer.Thanks a lot,
Jon LaRue, Kirkwood MO.

From: Carter
Subject: Analysis Paralysis – I’ve got it bad

Message Body:
Hey guys, listening from Canada (sorry for all the smoke), I love the podcast and have learned quite a bit from your deep dives. Keep up the good work! Nathans humor and total lack of give a f**k makes my sides hurt.
I was hoping you could point me in the right direction for my situation. I am trying really hard to ignore the hype built up around these next gen printer speeds, but I think there is some merit to them. On one hand I’m not sure I’d gain anything as fast part cooling typically = weaker parts. On the other, rapidly printing prototypes would speed up workflow.
I am printer shopping and stuck in analysis paralysis. I currently have a highly modified Ender 3v2 (Dragonflt BMS, fans, Jyers firmware) and have gotten it dialed into the point where I can click send to printer and walk away. I now need something to print ABS,ASA and maybe CF nylon for functional prints so having a built in filter is a huge plus. High speed PLA or PETG would be a bonus but not absolutely necessary. I also don’t have an immediate need for a bigger build surface but maybe not a bad idea to get for the future.
My current choices are as follows:
Budget ~$1500cnd + or – $300

• Another Ender 3v2 (or 2 or 3) on sale $289 + mods will cost $500cnd total with a custom filtered enclosure. Sticking with what I know is appealing to keep the workflow the same but maybe not the most reliable choice for making functional parts even if its in an enclosure. It’s also outdated so I’m not sure that’s a good use of my money. They also take up a lot of space.
• An Ender 3v3se + an enclosed Prusa Mk3s+ (fast printer + a workhorse)
• Bambulabs P1S – $900 + $80 hardened parts for CF
• Creality K1/K1 Max – $700-$1250
• 1 or 2 Prusa mk3S+ – $879 ($450-700 used with an enclosure.)
• Prusa Mk4 $1400 + enclosure too expensive for what it is?
• Any other suggestions? I am not apposed to buying 2 printers, so long as it fits within the budget.
  I am inclined to lean toward a K1 Max because I feel like once the source code is released retrofitting parts would be much easier and the community will embrace it more. Probably not to the same extent as the E3v2, but the ability to fix any deficiencies with the machine long term would be nice.
  Sorry for the length, please feel free to cut this down to save recording time. Thanks for all that you guys do to keep us nerds entertained on long drives and at work.

This episodes questions:

With the new addition of podcasts to youtube music, do you guys have any plans of uploading podcasts to that platform on a separate channel?

Shortandstumpy

A month ago one of the capacitors on the mainboard exploded. It stunk quite bad but the whole 3D-Printer still works. I did use it for a long time but I didn´t do any upgrades or changes on it. Can I still use it?
Love your podcast!

David

So I’m relatively new to the 3D printing community and I’ve been able to acquire a few printers from an auction site here in Vegas where 3D printers go extremely cheap. An Ender 3 S1, Flashforge Adventurer 3 Pro and Phrozen Mighty 8K resin printer. I’ve also been lucky enough to find an original stock Prusa i3 MK2 for $100 through the Marketplace. If you were to choose between the MK2 and S1 which would you choose and why?

Linus

something that JJ mentioned in this episode was power outages (whilst printing a helmet for example)… I don’t really understand when/who needs an uninterrupted power supply. These power outages that people talk about, are they momentary outages that cause print failures, or are they longer outages? I ask because I am about to buy my first 3d printer, and I’ve never owned any kind of battery-based power supply protection. Using my computer, I never notice any power outages other than the longer outage kind. So my question is, what kind of power outages are you referring to and are they common? I would guess the sort of very short power interruptions that commonly occur but most people never notice, are usually handled by capacitors for small electronics. But I’m supposing the power consumption of a 3d printer means the capacitors they have for the motor drivers are not specified to provide much power supply protection… please could you discuss the topic of power supply, the sorts of power outages that people can commonly expect, and who really needs to invest in power supply interruption solutions. Great podcast, thanks in advance.

Tom

This Episodes Questions:

I’m planning to make an Iron man suit as a summer project, inspired by Frankly built, and I’m not sure what slicer has better support material, Cura or Prusaslicer.  Almost every print will need to have supports, so this is important.

Calvin Selin

Hello Guy, JJ, and Nathan,

I have a question about wiring as a result of adding dual 5015 fans to my Ender 3 monstrosity.

I like using crimps vs soldering and would like to add a second fan for part cooling, but it’s been 20 years since tech school so my memory is fuzzy on best practices. 

How do I wire the second 5015 fan? Can I run 2 positive wires into 1 side of the crimp and a single positive wire back to the motherboard, and then the same with the negative side? 

I plan on using quick connects closer to the print head for ease of maintenance later. The slicing of the wires is planned be further away from the print head so there’s less movement on the splice/combination of wires. 

Thanks for your help.

Jon LaRue

Hi, Recently upgraded to cr-10 smart pro I can get solid prints unless I use the front right side of the printer. I have leveled several times manual and automatic; still no luck. Any suggestions in what I should do?

Alex

Hey guys been listening for awhile and just listening to the recent episode and had some good recommendations. You seem to have about the sidewinder X2 and it’s a good printer but I have had issues with it and had to move to klipper. Do you guys have the problem? The problem seems to be with Pausing and resuming prints (so can’t do color changes) and if you’d lose power you can’t resume. Thanks in advance.

Brad

Hi guys, it’s wayne again from the the Uk, just wondering what your thoughts was on idex machines, was thinking of getting the Sovol sv04, keep up the great show

Wayne

Hi everyone,

I hope y’all are doing well! I started listening to the podcast a couple weeks ago and I’m loving it! I love hearing the advice y’all give to everyone about their printers. I actually had a question of my own. Nathan, I’ve seen every video you’ve made for the S1. I was wondering if there were any upgrades/mods you’d add to it now with the recent release of products in 2023 i.e Sonicpad, BTT Pad 7, and main boards?

Luis

Had a tech issue here at PFL, and was only able to restore about half the podcast. Sorry! We still are puiblishing what we have and it’s a really great conversation for it’s length. Thanks so much for listening!

This Episodes Listener Questions:

Hello guys,

I’m a listener from the Netherlands. I really enjoy your podcast, so keep up the good work!

As a wannabe printer owner I’m in search for a printer that fits my needs. What I’m looking for is:

• ease of use
• reliability
• print quality
• 350 euro/dollar max

I’d really hate to spend much time on the printer instead of printing so thats why reliability and ease of use is important for me.

In that regard, I thought a second hand Prusa mk3s+ would be the best choice, but those sell for around 500 euro where I live. Meaning I have to save a bit longer.

Another option is to buy a cheaper, new printer, like the Sovol SV06, which fits my budget. This printer seems to tick all the boxes of what would normally be upgraded on cheaper machines. I wonder what your opinion is. Would you recommend either of these or maybe something else?

Kind regards,

Matroosoft

ive been printing as far back as the Anet A8, AKA the firestarter, and i have numerous build plates, PEI, Builttak, glass, and textured PEI, even carbon fibre, gives great finish, ive never had a problem with adhesion, never had to use glue or hairspray, Just wondered what you guys goto print surface is, ps only just found the podcast, great show guys.

Wayne

This episodes questions:

Jacob 

With the recent debacle between Bambu and Prusa. I was wondering about Bambu patents. As far as I am aware a patent is only enforceable if it was an original thought. The only two things I can even think Bambu has added to the knowledge the community had is the “LIDAR” and the more precise carbon rods. Everything else about the printer has been done like purge bucket, Multi material, Linear advance and pressure advance. I was wonder your guys thoughts on really how much could Bambu patient? I can’t see much damage being done “LIDAR” kinda sucks and is not needed and there are other ways to cut weight like the Ultra light 2020.

Love the podcast gives me some knowledge and entertainment at work.

Gary  Ratajczak 

Helping family friends that own a canoe company get started in 3D Printing for some accessories and prototyping – I have no experience accept for Fusion 360.  Getting overwhelmed with all the info.  They are looking for an enclosed unit, without the need for a lot of tweaking.  First project is printing a higher strength carbon filament.  Not interested in units that are not yet on the market, and ones without support as this will be used for some light production.  Do you guys have some tips to get me started. I hear Prusa the most, but it does not look like they have an enclosed unit.  I have watched many videos, but don’t know what I don’t know.  I understand nothing is perfect, but just looking to get them off to a good solid start while we learn and ramp up. New listener – enjoying greatly!!

Stephen Shankles

Hey guys, JJ’s brother Stephen here. I’ve been enjoying the podcast, keep up the good work.

I’ve got a small 3d printer JJ gave me about a year ago and it’s been great fun making small things and toys for the kids, but I’ve been struggling to find many truly useful projects to make with it.  I’m a professional furniture maker and run my own wood shop, and I’m sure there are ways a 3d printer can be used in that context.  Can you guys tell me what your favorite uses for 3d printing are?  Things that are better or more useful for having been printed.

This Episodes Listener Questions:

From Hurz:
How does Guy feel about wood filled filament?

From Derek:
Hello from Tasmania! Really enjoying the 3D printing podcast after consuming most of the woodshop life podcasts. I also started in woodworking and have branched out to 3D printing after getting a second hand Creality CR6-SE about a year ago.
My question: can you talk about your preferred method for storing filament and keeping it dry. Also is there a shelf life for filaments or if stored properly could they be used indefinitely?
Second question: pros and cons of having an enclosure. I print with PETG or PLA+. I mainly make jigs and accessories for the workshop (eg TIG tungsten grinder, right angle sanding jig for festool sander, drill bit holders etc). Is there any advantage for me to make an acrylic enclosure for my printer? Would i get any improvements in terms of print quality? My house is climate controlled and has very stable temp and humidity levels.

Possible question 3:
Have you ever had a 3D printer malfunction or catch fire (worst case scenario) with extended or overnight use. Just wondering how well these machines might stand up to a longer period of use. I sometimes might have to leave the house when there’s a lengthy print happening but sometimes worry about what could happen when left unattended. Given there are electrics plus heat in combination, any tips on safety and fire risk?
Thanks!

From Brent:
Hello love the show I’m currently at a loss I have been 3d printing for a year now and have had several solid prints on ender 5 pro. We ended up having a large storm and it still worked after words but with issues I’ve fixed almost all of them by upgrading and replacing certain parts but my current issue is that the walls of my prints are separated not layer lines but looking down at the walls they are separated when they where one before and I have asked many 3d printing groups and they only send me to same websites that haven’t been able to help any ideas I’m ready to burn this printer to the ground thank you sorry for the length of this message

Here are this weeks listener questions:

Hurz

Hello Guy(s),

how is it that Prusaslicer is so awesome in regard to multimaterial painting and so bad at handling IDEX in general? When using an oozeshield the temperature management is poor i.e. the next extruder reheat is not predicted so it takes a lot of time because isn’t done while the other head is still printing. Also the retraction settings for a tool change are broken for 2 years now, hell back then I didn’t even have a printer. Cura on the other hand handles the machine very nice but has no painting option.

What Slicer does JJ prefer for IDEX?

Jon

Hey Guy, JJ, and Nathan,

I read the other day, “He who has 2 3D printers, has 1 operational 3D printer”. I am looking at getting a second printer, I was impressed with y’all’s (sorry for “y’all’s”  I am from Missouri) videos on the Ender 3 S1/S1 Pro, Ender 5 S1, and Artillery Sidewinder X2. I will be using it to print replacement parts for an Ender 3 Pro I intend to mod. Any opinions on what to buy? I want the ability to print fast as well as print with high quality via slow speeds. I am gravitating towards the Ender 5 S1. Though Artillery is coming out with a CoreXY in the near future that could be cool too.

Sorry if this sort of question are out of bounds. Loving the Podcast.

Here are the Questions for this weeks podcast:

Lawrence from Toronto

   I have an ender 5 with the extruder set up with a bowden tube. If I change over to direct drive, what are the immediate benefits to me? Can I go faster? Does it print better? And if i do upgrade, can you recommend an all in one unit? Or should I go the DIY route and use the parts that I have and print out a new tool head? I know, too many questions. Thanks for the great podcast!

Justin

I want to add automatic bed leveling to my printer which is an Ender 3. There are so many options! Can you guys discuss the different types of bed level sensors and which is the most accurate and the best value?