Category: 3d printing

This Episodes Questions:

When printing with large nozzles, do the same volumetric flow rate limits apply or do they scale with the larger nozzle? Such as PLA in 0.4 nozzle at <20 cubic mm/s, then with a 0.8 nozzle are you still limited by the material to the same flow rate or can you increase temp and tune settings to a higher flow rate? Thanks! Ben

This Episodes Questions:

I want to make this printer as safe as possible but it will require a lot of power. AC powered heat beds are getting more and more common but every video I watch on the topic makes a point to talk about SSRs failing with the power on (closed circuit?) even when talking about high quality and over-spec SSRs. A thermal fuse will prevent a melted bed but then I still have a potentially dangerous situation with 120v AC power. I am very well aware of the recent A1 recall and don’t want to turn this into a bambu discussion. I think we can all agree they shouldn’t have put an AC powered heater on a bed slinger and call it a day
Peter

.STL files are ubiquitous, but are there better alternatives such as .3MF? What are the pros and cons of different file formats?
Also, do you have any recommendations for export settings when exporting a 3D file from a CAD program.
Thanks!
Austin

Hi Guys,
I enjoy listening to your show here in the UK in my workshop. 3D printing started as a much loved hobby and has now turned into a big part of my small business 3d printing light fittings.
Anyway, I’m currently running a bunch of Ultimaker 2’s and looking to to upgrade.
I print pretty much everything with 1mm – 1.5mm walls and a 0.5mm layer height, lots of spiralize/vase mode. Id love to hear your opinions on which printers can print wide walls and big layer heights with good cooling to speed my production up. I found that the matchless nozzles from 3D solex helped btw. Its definitely time to ditch the old UM2’s though (I’m not considering Ultimakers, they’re now hugely overpriced IMHO). I’m not after huge build volume either. Bamboo is a no for me due to IP worries.
Thanks and keep up the good work!
Jamie Norris Green – Leeds – UK

This Episodes Questions:

I would be interested to hear you guys discuss safety with respect to fumes and plastic particles. I’m planning to park my EV3SE on a tall cabinet close to a large bathroom vent fan but I can already see the attraction of an enclosed CoreXY machine for better capture and control of fumes and particles. James

I recently found your podcast, which has quickly become one of my go-to pods when commuting to and from work.
My question is more of an observation of sorts. Whenever I print with darker PLA, I have noticed more stringing than lighter colors. I use the same brand for my PLA and I use the same material profile for all colors.
I only change things like the number of walls, top/bottom layers, or infill according to the item I am printing at the time. My temperatures for the bed and hotend never change.
I do not have very much stringing but it is more noticeable when I print in black or a darker color.
I would like to know if this has been your experience or if it just might be my brand’s formulation of darker colors causing the stringing.
Is it practical to change the hotend temp per color?
Thanks in advance for any insight. Keep up the great content! Vann

This Episodes Questions:

Another dedicated aussie listener, hey guys, thanks for a great podcast. My question is, I recently purchased a K1 Max, not many issues except hot end blockages 3 in as many weeks, it’s even causing under extrusion and have to disassemble the hot end to clear it out, thing is it seems to line the inside just above the nozzle which seems impossible to clear, any advice would be much appreciated, is it me the way I’m changing filament or is it an issue with the printer? Thanks in advance Roy

My question is about the new K1 firmware hack provided by crealitys outlet on giithub, is it worth the risk? I’ve been doing the yards in checking and researching, but cannot other than maybe a couple of issues from people on Reddit I have around 3 years experience in 3d printing so have some knowledge thanks avid listne4 to your 0odcast, great listening Roy

Hi.
I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo, and the bed is in very bad condition and the prints are not sticking well, while i wait for a new bed i want to ask, can i use lacquer on my bed (I don’t know which type is it)?
Thanks, Noa

This weeks listener questions:

Hey guys, love the podcast! Leveling – Spring, silicone spacers, wheel locks, use a piece of paper, use a feeler gauge, etc…. for those of us that don’t have a BambuLab printer or some machine that auto-levels for you in that there are NO leveling wheels to adjust, what is your guys’ step-by-step process for getting a good level? Set Z-height, manual level, auto level? Use a piece of paper to gauge height? Keep the springs or swap them out for silicone spacers? There are a lot of “recommendations” on the interwebs when it comes to this and I’d love your take on it.
Josh

My workplace has a Prusa Mk2.5s that we can use for personal projects. I recently printed a set of inserts for my router table plate. Getting their height extremely accurate is important, and I’ve found that the prusa is consistently printing thing about .003″ thicker than designed. The ID of the holes in the center of the part is consistently.004″ undersized. Is this level of accuracy acceptable for a printer like this? What kinda of things can I do tune it? Should I just account for it in my designs? Or am I being too damn picky?
Enjoying the podcast, keep it up.
P.S. Guy, if you’ve got any printers you want taken off your hands, you should reach out to me before your son! I’ll trade you a knife Theo

Hi, im Altair and i love the 3d printing world and your podcasts is so usefull to me, but ill get to the point.
I have a Ender 3 V2 Neo, its great but im not im home a lot and i cant use i a lot, so, could you recomend me a tiny printer that i could move and take with me.
Thanks. Altair

This Episodes Questions:

Good Morning/afternoon/evening JJ, Nathan, and of course, Guy! I hope that you are all doing well and Nathan hasn’t burned down down his studio yet. Love the podcast and all the content each of you are making. The different perspectives is really interesting to see and hear from you three.
My question is pretty simple. With all the hype about CoreXY machines lately, and people wanting to print faster, why are there not more Delta Printers on the market? Nathan, you can hold your tongue and let JJ or Guy respond and then let your venom spew forth. LOL! Also, can you please explain the reason CoreXZ even exists? Thanks for all you three do and I look forward to hearing the answer on the podcast.
John D Strand, yes the guy in the jesters hat at MRRF.

I purchased a Creasee Skywalker sometime ago but have not had the opportunity to use it until now.I have read that Creasee no longer exists. Can I replace the proprietary operating system with Marlin. Can you please point me toward a resource for some assistance.Thanks so much.
David

Hey, guys!! Absolutely love the show and watching your channels on YouTube. My question is I have a modded Ender 3 Pro and I’ve been struggling with these vertical lines on my prints along the Y axis. I’ve come to find this is a common issue among 3d printers and its referred to as Vertical Fine Artifacts (VFA). I haven’t seen to of found any fix for this and have tried multiple things. Like belt tension, adjusting the wheels, replacing stepper motor and pulleys. I’m hoping you guys can shed some light on this and know of a possible fix. Or even maybe some tips that can reduce the appearance of them. Thanks guys!
Kyle

I listened to Brendons question about correct hole size and remembered when I had the same problem about last year when I started designing things for myself, I found a very useful little chart from littlemachineshop(.)com that is the first result if you google “little machine shop tap chart”. The link at the top of the page has a PDF that has almost all the needed bore and drill sizes for whatever type of hole is needed based on fastener size, in standard and metric.
Making holes in Fusion360 also includes the option of choosing the type of fastener and then choosing between a tapped or clearance hole, and a lot of other useful options (depth, counterbore, countersunk, etc.).
I don’t know if I am required to ask a question, so if I am here it is: I’m thinking about selling some of my models as kits and as STLs. What would the best platform for that me? Etsy? Cults? Squarespace?
Thanks for your time,
Chris Feeney

Lots of K1 Max Talk, New Bambu Printer, Design Tolerance and MORE!

This Episodes Questions:

Hey guys, I’m a hobbyist and new to 3d printing. I have the budget right now for the P1P w/ AMS and would be able to save a bit for the X1C w/ AMS. I’m really debating between the 2 as I primarily print only PLA & PETG, and don’t really see myself needing an enclosure for some of the other filamen types. I’m interested in multi-material printing, speed, and not having to worry about leveling. I’d love to save some money by getting the P1P w/ AMS, but don’t know if it’s worth it to have the LiDar and some of the other bells & whistles that the X1-Carbon offers. Would love your input, thanks!
Josh

One thing I’ve always struggled with when designing new parts and fixtures is getting tolerances right, whether it be for a loose, sliding fit; push fit, or even creating a hole that a screw will go into and cut its own threads. Is there a general formula for sizing based off of the type of fit?
Brendon

Filament temps – When I first started printing I finally learned the correct settings for the original spool of PLA that I got. I got a new spool of PLA from a different company and just left the temp settings the same thinking it’d get the same result and I can’t get anything to stick. How do you guys go about finding the optimal temperature settings for a new spool?
Thanks for the great podcast!
Josh

Another question I was thinking about that I would love to hear your opinions about is bed adhesion, Glue Stick vs a Brim. Slicers are starting to default to autobrim, which I think is really weird.

This Episodes Questions:

I have saved up enough money to buy a $200 3d printer. Can you give me a list of pros and cons of each printer and 3d printing in general?

John 

Hey Guy, 

    I’m working on starting a 3d printing business. I have only 1 3d printer, an ender 3 v2. This was my first 3d printer and I learned a lot in The past 2 years on this 3d printer and I want something different but I do not know what is the best 2nd printer. I hate watching videos and people dont really care about how their print quality looks, so it makes it hard to chose my next printer when there are only a few people on youtube who care about the quality of their prints. Im looking for something with great print quality. What do you, jj and nathan recommend?

P.s. 

Love the show. You guys are doing a great job.

Aaron

hi everyone from Ozzy land

I have a Creality CR10S pro V2 and it hasn’t been too bad for a first printer (mind you its creality)  has any of you used this particular machine?  there isn’t many reviews on it.  and the other thing is how do you know when to change the heater cartridge? (outside of just not working) because my machine seems to be sensitive to the part blower blowing on it.  and its still a stock machine.

Thank you for the great podcast been learning plenty off it

Jason