Ender 5 S1 Mods, Printing ASA, .06 or .04 Nozzle? and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:

Just finished the latest episode where you guys talked about FreeCAD. I almost snapped when Guy said it was not parametric, or that “just recently changed”. It’s been like that since day one, almost 22 years ago.
What Guy referred to was the Topological Naming Problem, the thing that happens when you remove a feature that another feature depends upon. Something that was mentioned happening to Guy in Fusion as well. Have great news, in the 0.22dev branch it has code that mitigates that issue (can never be solved, because there is an infinite number of possible models to design and an infinite ways of breaking things) and in August or September the 1.0 version is going to be released with that fix and many, many improvements present in the 0.22dev. I encourage you to be on the fence for when 1.0 is released.
And yes, FreeCAD uses the graphics card with OpenGL.
Cheers from Argentina, Gabriel

The Ender 5-S1 is my only machine. Aside from the sonic pad and the acrylic enclosure, are there any mods that you’d consider worth the time and investment? If yes, what would be the cost and how tricky are they to pull off for someone with good DIY skills and equipment, but only moderate 3d printer knowledge? I’m in the UK (I can do the currency conversion, but not all products available to you might be available easily here, though I’m willing to import if it’s worth it).
Thanks again! Simon Troup

What are the major categories or different applications you would classify printers into? I’m thinking along the lines of a voron 0 for small high quality, something with a large print volume, something enclosed and high precision, etc. I ask this as I consider selecting a second printer, what are some considerations to decide on what would most expand my capabilities?
I have an E3V3 KE with some minor mods (structural, silicone spacers, nozzles) and I have it well tuned and printing great. Do I get a second one for continuity and ease of use, or would I be better served getting something to fit a different niche?
Love the podcast and all the different angles you bring to the discussion!Ben

I was curious to know what type of ASA you were trying to print as I have printed E-Sun, Inland and Polymaker. I have never had a problem with keeping it on the bed. I’ve even printed it on an ender 3 pro in the open air and it stuck just fine. I do use Magioo on my print beds, so just curious what you guys were using that was warping. I have a K1, an Ender 3 pro and Ender 3 pro s1 and a sv06 Sovol and printed ASA just fine on all of them. The SV06 and the s1 are in those cheap creality plastic enclosures.
Thank you for the response. Chris

I love the podcast. Guy, I’ve been following you on the fine woodworking side for several years, and gravitated to this podcast when I got my first 3D printer, an AnyCubic Kobra 2 along with Raspberry Pi and Octoprint, in December. I’ve upgraded to Bambu Labs X1 Carbon. The Kobra 2/Raspberry Pi required me to spend my time mastering the technology, rather than just printing cool stuff. I realized I did not need another rabbit hole, so I went with the X1. The analogy I use when asked by other 3Ders is that rather than being the guy who soups up the car, I just want to go for a ride! But, I digress.
I’ve heard mixed reviews on the advantages of a 0.6mm hot end vs. the stock 0.4mm that comes with the printer. Speed and strength are noted as the primary advantages, but at some cost to quality. Many of the prints I make are for use as jigs in the shop or other household hacks, so even though I love the quality of the prints, I could sacrifice that for speed. I’ve read many comments on reddit that say the speed improvement claim is exaggerated. Can you guys set me straight? Paul

Favorite Prints, Printing PETG Fast, Print Dimensional Accuracy and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:

I got into the hobby in the last year or so, and have been looking at lots of different printers for my second machine. I’m fascinated by the design of them. I have an older, second-hand, FlashForge educational model the “Inventor”, and I rarely have to re-level my bed once it’s dialed in.
Why does the larger Voron design use a flying gantry with 4 stepper motors, instead of a fixed gantry and a moving build plate for the z axis? It seems like it would be so wobbly and it requires mesh bed leveling. Also, why are PEI build plates so popular when a Glass plate is so much flatter, more durable, and has better thermal mass?
Tim

What has been your favorite personal project or application of 3d printing? What have you made or fixed with 3d printing that you were most proud of, excited about, or found most useful?
Ben

Hey Guy and guys,
I love my Ender 3 v3 and I’ve printed a ton of PLA with it. However, the stock profile in Creality Print for PETG prints quite slowly in comparison, around 50 mm/sec. How do I go about printing PETG faster? What settings should I look into adjusting so I can bump the speed and still get decent prints? Thanks!
Bruce

Hi Guy(s),

Thanks for the discussion about FreeCAD. Since I asked my original question, there has been some notable development in the FreeCAD project that might entice you or some listeners to check it out. And just to be clear, I’m not involved in the development of FreeCAD or Ondsel, I’m just enthusiastic about its progress and think it could be of use to a lot of people.
In the latest development builds of FreeCAD (available on their GitHub), they have made major improvements in the parametric behavior. Models are more resilient when making changes and references are less likely to break. FreeCAD is still not as usable as something like Onshape, but at the current rate of development, I think it is becoming serious competition.
I guess this is supposed to be a question, so how about this: What are your go to resources for learning a new program/software? Do you have any specific websites or YouTube channels you recommend for learning your CAD program of choice? Thanks,
Austin

Hey guys,
I’ve been developing an adjustable projection jig for the most popular honing guides (Guy can explain), but the parts aren’t coming out square. I have a Bambu P1S, and I’ve tried different orientations for the parts (except diagonally), and different materials and print speeds, but the parts are consistently out of square, which renders the jig useless. I’ve had the issue since the printer was first set up.
How do you recommend I fix the problem? Thanks!
Damon