Prusa Worth The $$$?, Money For Your Models, PLA or PETG? and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:

Howdy! I just wanted to comment about the last podcast it was mentioned when you put a Bambu printer in LAN only mode bypassing the cloud it asks you for the 10 digit code. It doesn’t do that anymore, you just have to enter the code once and it remembers it now. Leith

In Canada today, a Prusa MK4 is $1099 CAD, Bambu’s A1 is $719, or Creality is selling the Ender 3 V3 KE for $399. All 3 are bed slingers capable of a sub 20 minute benchy, auto bed-levelling, and input shaping.
In the early days of 3D printing, Prusa demanded a premium because they had arguably the best printer on the market. Today, Prusa still prices their printers like they are a cut above, but the competition has caught up.
Does Prusa need to reassess how they price their machines in today’s market? Or is that orange paint still worth the Prusa premium?
I’ve been playing around with 3D printing on my ender 3 v2 for almost a year now, and I’ve pretty much exclusively used PLA. The other day I got my first spool of PETG and I’m amazed, it prints just like PLA but is tougher, more thermal resistant, UV resistant, and the quality is just as good as PLA and just as easy to print.
Why are we still predominantly using PLA when PETG exists? Cory

Hey Guy, Nathan & JJ,
Thanks for everything you guys do!
the question is about designing models you could monetize. There are many talented folks come up with original ideas but one size does not fit all. so how about designing similar model for same purpose? truly designing; not removing their logos from their STLs, designing and making STEP files.
does it invite copyright issues? just wanted to hear on this from you guys.
Thanks, keep up the good work
EM Extruded Mind

Also, I’m guessing the printer’s motion control components are just as important for print quality if not more so, but is there anything new and innovative happening in the motion control space or has decades of industrial automation given us the best we are going to get and all that’s left to do is find the best components at the cheapest price? James

Cloud Printing Bad?, Alternate Filaments, Troodon vs. Voron? and MORE!!

This Episode’s Questions:

It seems to me that the 3D printer market is going to split into two types; the enclosed ecosystem (Apple) and the open source type (Android). Companies like Bambu want the enclosed ecosystem to build appliances that maximize profit potential. I’m OK with that because there is good value to consumers for products that “just work” and you guys clearly like your P1P’s and P1S’s. My only problem with that is the loss of privacy and control to Bambu’s network. It’s a no-go for me and like Nathan, I work offline and I will never own a machine that requires online access to operate. I got the impression there is a way around that but Bambu makes it difficult. Could you expand on what workarounds there are for people like me who don’t want to drink the Koolaid? James

Hello! New listener, and first time writer. I have an Ender 3, an Ender 3 v2, and a friends CR-10 smart. I was wondering what your recommendations would be to upgrade one of the Enders to print either TPU, or ABS/ASA. I could go either direction really! Love the show! Leo

I heard a guy asking about building. Voron and you guys recommend he go with bambu. But he can go with troodon which is a pre built voron. I provided a link. Brad

And Nathan dispels some 3D Printing superstitions

New Ender 3 V3, Why .STL’s?, Printer Safety and MORE

This Episodes Questions:

I want to make this printer as safe as possible but it will require a lot of power. AC powered heat beds are getting more and more common but every video I watch on the topic makes a point to talk about SSRs failing with the power on (closed circuit?) even when talking about high quality and over-spec SSRs. A thermal fuse will prevent a melted bed but then I still have a potentially dangerous situation with 120v AC power. I am very well aware of the recent A1 recall and don’t want to turn this into a bambu discussion. I think we can all agree they shouldn’t have put an AC powered heater on a bed slinger and call it a day
Peter

.STL files are ubiquitous, but are there better alternatives such as .3MF? What are the pros and cons of different file formats?
Also, do you have any recommendations for export settings when exporting a 3D file from a CAD program.
Thanks!
Austin

Hi Guys,
I enjoy listening to your show here in the UK in my workshop. 3D printing started as a much loved hobby and has now turned into a big part of my small business 3d printing light fittings.
Anyway, I’m currently running a bunch of Ultimaker 2’s and looking to to upgrade.
I print pretty much everything with 1mm – 1.5mm walls and a 0.5mm layer height, lots of spiralize/vase mode. Id love to hear your opinions on which printers can print wide walls and big layer heights with good cooling to speed my production up. I found that the matchless nozzles from 3D solex helped btw. Its definitely time to ditch the old UM2’s though (I’m not considering Ultimakers, they’re now hugely overpriced IMHO). I’m not after huge build volume either. Bamboo is a no for me due to IP worries.
Thanks and keep up the good work!
Jamie Norris Green – Leeds – UK